I explored while Henry attended two days of meetings at our hotel (Melia--centrally located and well appointed). I started with a three and a half hour boat trip along Berlin's waterways. The city claims to have more bridges than Venice.
In no special order of preference, here are some destinations from my wanderings through Berlin:
2. Altes Museum: On Museum Island, and home to a collection of ancient Greek art.
3. Bode Museum: On Museum Island, and home to the Museum of Byzantine Art, sculpture from the Middle Ages through the 18th century, and a numismatic collection. Neither the Altes Museum nor the Bode Museum impressed me as much as the Pergamon, but that is more a function of individual preference than quality of the respective exhibits.
a. Antisemitism in Germany and elsewhere has existed for centuries. Nevertheless, Jews fought for the Kaiser during World War I, just as did other groups who were subsequently deemed "deficient" by the Nazis. Although the number of Jews in Germany at the end of World War I constituted less than 1% of the population, Hitler took advantage of a "perfect storm" confluence of factors to blame poor economic conditions and other failings of the Weimar Republic on the Jews. Because of harsh reparations and other conditions dictated by the victorious countries in the Treaty of Versailles, Germans sought solutions in alternative forms of government. For whatever reasons (I'd like to research this question in more depth), a number of German Jews joined the Communist Party (KPD) in post-World War I Germany. Perhaps Jews were drawn to the KPD by the socialist "ideal" of equal rights--something they had been denied for centuries in different degrees in various countries. And, despite the affluence of some German Jews, many, among them Jews who moved west from Russia to escape the pogroms under the Czar, suffered the same economic woes as other Germans. In any event, in the 1920's and early 1930's, the KPD was a major political party in Germany, with representation in the parliament and generally garnering 10-15% of the vote (in other words, by the numbers alone, the KPD could hardly be considered a Jewish plot!). The KPD hoped to form a united front of the working class and to defeat the growing power of Nazi fascism. In early 1933, shortly after Hitler was appointed Chancellor, the Reichtag was set on fire. Hitler and the Nazis blamed the fire on the Communists, and took advantage of this event to give Hitler dictatorial powers. The KPD was squelched, with many Communist officials arrested and sent to concentration camps. Jews who were members of the KPD faced a double whammy.
b. Having outlawed opposition parties and establishing a totalitarian single party, the Nazis used fear tactics (e.g., Dachau Concentration Camp, opened in 1933, was first used for political and other perceived opponents of the Nazi regime)) and an overwhelming propaganda machine (directed especially toward the young) to garner support and remove opposition. Whether rank and file Germans were enthusiastic Hitler supporters or not, they are portrayed in the museum as following the path of, in my words, "going along to get along". Having targets such as Jews, Gypsies, homosexuals, and the like as objects at which "real" Germans could direct their frustration and discontent, apparently was sufficient to keep the German population in check. It also helped that many Germans profited from laws forcing Jews to sell their businesses, homes, and belongings at fractions of their worth. In addition, big German business could support the war effort with slave laabor offered by the Nazis.
c. Not every German was a Hitler supporter, and the museum emphasizes that opposition had its price, which most Germans were not willing to pay.
d. Although various high-ranking Nazis were tried for war crimes, the trials petered out as the Cold War warmed up. As a result, many Germans who held official posts during the war were not prosecuted and they ultimately returned to their former posts.
e. Some German companies have been more willing than others to pay reparations to individuals who worked as slave labor during the war.
9. Brohan Museum and Berggruen Museum: There are three small museums across the street from Charlottenburg Palace. Once I was in the vicinity and with a bit of extra time, I stopped in at two of them. The Art Deco and Art Nouveau textiles, silver, furniture, and glass in the Brohan Museum did not strike a strong chord with me (personal taste again), but I was very impressed with the "Picasso and His Time" collection at the Berggruen Museum next door. Part of what sets this exhibit apart from others is the history behind it. Heinz Berggruen was a Jew, born in Berlin. Beginning his career as a journalist, he left Germany in 1936, after he was told that because of his Jewish name, his articles would be signed with only his initials. Studying art in the United States, he became an art critic for the San Francisco Chronicle. He later joined the U.S. Army, fought in the European theater, and settled in Paris after Wold War II. There, he opened an art gallery, became friends with Picasso, and ultimately became a collector in his own right. In the mid-1990s, after 60 years in exile, Berggruen accepted an invitation to display his collection (modern art previously deemed degenerate in Nazi Germany) in the refurbished building that is now the Berggruen Museum. As a gesture of reconciliation with his homeland, he donated the collection to the Berlin State Museums for a payment of approximately one-tenth of the collection's value. Bergruenn was subsequently awarded honorary citizenship of Berlin and Germany's Federal Cross of Merit.
10. Winterfeldt Market: Another open air market and off the well-beaten tourist path, but a fine spot to buy fruits for my picnic lunch in the Charlottenburg Palace Gardens. This market reminded me of the Del Mar Fair (darn, I missed it this year!), in large part because I got "caught" by a purveyor of "better than anyone else's" skin products!
11. Unter den Linden and Alexanderplatz: More places to wander and to see and be seen. After walking part of the Unter den Linden two weeks earlier, Henry and I walked the rest of it, traveling east toward Alexanderplatz (another tourist magnet). The western half of Unter den Linden, from Friedrichstrasse (the street on which our hotel was located, just a couple of blocks off of UDL) to the Brandenburg Gate, is prettier, maybe because it was uncomfortably warm when we walked the other way!
What is particularly noteworthy about my list of sights is that, except for the market, Charlottenburg, and the two nearby museums, all of the sights are located in what was formerly East Berlin. This is a tribute to the grand efforts Germans have made to blend the two Berlins and two Germanys. Late in his life, Heinz Berggruen was quoted as saying, "I am neither French nor German. I am European. I'd very much like to think there was a European nationality, but I think I may be dreaming." Who knows what the future of the European Union may bring??
Two museums I missed, but would have liked to visit, were the Kathe Kollwitz Museum (recommended by our daughter Sara, and affirmed by my viewing of the Mother with Her Dead Son sculpture at the Central Memorial to the Victims of War and Tyranny) and the Berlin Guggenheim Museum (I'm a big fan of the Guggenheim Museum in New York; unfortunately, the Berlin Guggenheim was between exhibitions and therefore closed).
One restaurant is worth mentioning--Al Contadino, an Italian restaurant recommended in an article published in the Swiss airline magazine. The place was jumping with good reason--the food was delicious!
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